Male coat appearance Overview
Thrown down collar, single row of three Mingniu Xiecha bags, after the film seam split, laid out under the panties, circle fitted sleeves, cuffs nail three decorative button. Lead, lapels, door lapel, shoulder seam, swing joints, the outer sleeve joints, valves bags, back seam are Ji 1cm spigot open wire.
Male coat product specifications
Male coat parts
1. Fabrics: Before the garment after garment, piece big sleeves, small sleeves tablets, noodles, collar, the collar surface, valves bags, mattress bags.
2. linings: before and after the film holder, the size of the sleeve piece, the wire embedded in bags, mattress bags, cloth bags, buckle loop, roll cloth, tape.
3. lining materials:
(1) spinning bonding lining: big body liner, liner lining, collar lining surface, collar lining, lining bags valves. (2) non-woven adhesive lining: pocket lining, back lining panties, cuff lining, sleeve lining panties, led by the band. (3) black carbon lining, chest velvet chest lining.
4. Other: flannel strips, shoulder pads, buttons, thread, cloth bags.
Male coat quality requirements
(1) various parts of the correct size, surface, the liner elastic fit. (2) split head, leading nest clothes, flat, collar length of the same angle. (3) busty, big body very flat, straight spigot, not stir without exclusion; pocket flat clothes, bags angle Founder, symmetrical. (4) shoulder very flat, symmetrical. (5) mounted along the sleeve round after round before boarding, no ripple, no hang tight phenomenon. (6) the back side board, flat service, back seam straight, do not stir back panties is not excluded. (7) spigot Ji-line straight, uniform width; slider can not afford to ripple, folder level service. (8) the appearance of clean, flat ironing clothes, no aurora, no watermark.
Male coat Making important and difficult
(1) do, loaded collar. (2) roll bars.
Male coat process
Check the cut pieces → test piece → wire Ding → sticky lining → closed Province → shrinking and stretching before and after the garment, sleeve piece → do chest lining → open pocket → complex chest lining → cladding retractor belt → vermicelli and bottom roll bar → open in bags → complex → vermicelli hot spigot turned back panties → → do Ji swing joints, do base → → do together shoulder seam collar fitted collar → → → do sleeve fitted sleeve → borrowing folder, Ji spigot → keyhole → ironing clinch → → test
Craftsmanship male coat
(A) inspect pieces
To coat the surface, where the lining cut the number of pieces and quality inspection, if any omission or defect should immediately patch or replacement.
(B) the test piece
The surface, the lining pieces according to the model be amended to ensure the accuracy of the cut pieces.
(C) wire Ding
1. wire Ding site
(1) front waist: New bit line, stacked gate line, split lines, bags bit line, bit line Province, shoulder sutures, placed sutures, hem, armhole knife line, waist line section.
(2) after the garment: high back line, the waist section line, a bottom edge, back stitch, panties back line.
(3) large piece sleeve: cuff line, partial sleeve line, the line elbow sleeves, mountain knife line.
(4) small piece sleeve: cuff line, elbow sleeves line, after the sleeve line.
Will cut the axillary dart Ji put sew with a needle ring ring firmly, draw attention to loose line.
(IV) clay liner
Sticky lining parts are: big body, collar face, neck, the back panties, cuffs, sleeves panties, bags bits, valves bags, noodles and the like.
(V) income provinces
First axillary Province Walled Village line with prison, on the lower elastic consistency, then the required car Ji dart. To receive the dart tip, Ji-line straight.
(Vi) normalized pull front and back piece, sleeve piece
1. go pull the front flap
(1) First wet the garment with water, sub-hot dart, the dart axillary ironing, hot evil. While at the armhole at oblique wire GuiLong, the trend toward fat chest. (2) the potential Guilong fat lapels, to the middle of the chest, and the chest fat burning potential uniform. (3) The first case of New Zealand the following eye spigot ironing, hot straight. Go straight to the bottom edge of the arc, ironing, fat trend upward. (4) The shoulder seam close to the body, the shoulders to the chest wefts, horizontal open a taste of Magdalene, the outer shoulder lateral-wire slightly upward pull.
2. After the return pull the garment (1) in the back of the armhole GuiLong and yarn path toward the back of the shoulder blade. (2) in the lumbar section of the concave potential pull and hip fat potential transports and collects. (3) the potential GuiLong back seam fat, waist section pulled back panties ironing. (4) The shoulder wefts pushed back shoulder blade area, slightly outside shoulder pulling point, while the back part of the shoulder blade potential hot fat evenly.
3. normalized pull sleeve piece large piece sleeve sleeve cuff elbow unplug the front panel, the upper portion slightly GuiLong 10cm to 10cm down after Sodeyama high return at a slightly hot.
(Vii) make the chest lining the chest lining generally consists of black carbon lining together flannel car components. According to the pattern on the chest lining province cut, with underlying pull back and forth Ji prison triangular needle. The black carbon lining and velvet lining with lines Walled good car Ji triangle line, and then spray ironing, pressing the two layers of lining, chest fat burning potential smoother.
(Viii) open pocket
1. Bag valves do
Bag valves with direct materials, the two net-like adhesive sheet liner bag attached to the back of the bag valves, surrounded aside seam, pocket reservation at 2cm. Two Kouguangtangsha. The small piece of cloth bags connected 2cm seam head, the mouth of the bag valves Ji 1cm spigot open wire, Ji-line straight, the same width.
2. Ji valves bags and bags doily
Bonding glue to the back of the bag liner position, and then press the bit line Ding Ji bags bags and bags valves mattress, two lines separated by about 1.5cm. Mattress bags by the bag at each end of the indentation 0.5cm.
3. open the bag
Ji in the middle of two lines cut, triangle cut ends, be careful not to cut Ji line.
4. points hot bag: the bag and the bag valves mattress flipping, hot seam apart. The lower flat cloth bags, mattress bags in separate seam on each side of Ji 0.1cm open wire. The lower fixed cloth bags.
5. seal bag
Laying the bag flat in the mouth a first seal, Ji-line 1cm, then a hand arch dark needle, sewing bags prison valves outside the mouth, or car Ji 0.1cm open wire.
(Ix) complex in the complex chest lining the chest lining retractor, make good pull formerly owned garment together a good hot chest lining cooling, the raw material stereotypes. First-lapel grid, the predecessor of the lining positioning, uniform surface lining, straight mouth only.
(J) apply with retractor
The garment settle the opposite direction, apply adhesive backing band led. In serial collar and corner flat barge deposited at the mouth of the outer segment and split the first split opening line of some tight dressing, in the following lapel buttonhole spigot flat cladding, led by the band at the bottom corner and apply a little tight.
(Xi) vermicelli and bottom slider
1. Pruning noodles and bottom of the Mouth manicured. Slider with 45 ° oblique silk lining, width about 2cm, hem silk linings available horizontal slider.
2. Ji Noodle slider
The roll bars front and noodles stacked, put seam flush Ji 0.4cm spigot, Ji-line straight. In the corner a little tight ear piece, protruding slightly loose so that the slider elastic fit. Ji after a good slider spigot straight, so consistent seam width.
3. Ji bottom slider front waist bottom slider and slider noodle process in the same manner.
(Xii) opening in the bag
Male coat bags commonly used embedded roll method. Before the first ear piece open bags lining the back stick, then the ear piece and oblique lines drawn insert bits powder bags printed materials welt cloth or scrape the grout stick thin lining, hot dry in.
(Xiii) complex Noodle
1. Complex Noodle
The complex contrast is good, good traction with a large wrap the body spigot ironing, split large head-body turn hot, flat face up, on the complex noodles. Noodle serial improve 2cm, split the first release outside the mouth 1cm, primary position to the hem of the Mouth and Noodle quasi flush swing, put the needle to the primary position along Walled split mouth line, then stop along the port to the Xiazhai.
2. Complex predecessor predecessor folder folder will collect the provincial hot back down, and then the folder in the complex body of clothing, armhole folder release 1cm, shoulder seam folder released 0.5cm, swing joints flush. Village along the Border line a slider or scraping a small amount of paste on the slider, the folder ironing in the complex, in the middle of the clip slightly put food trend. Finally, the bottom buckle folder light from the line D 2.5cm walled prison.
3. Ji-spoken predecessor only folder
The large body put, noodles next folder, press the powder line net Ji door lapel spigot, Ji-line is to be straight. After spigot Ji, Ji folder hem welt, then trim Ji Noodle dark line along the folder and Noodle Ji prison, when Ji Easing folder to prevent movement.
(Xiv) turned hot spigot
1. Revised spigot
The large body seam reservation 0.3-0.4cm, noodle seam reservation 0.6-0.7cm, the remaining seam trim off the excess inner ear piece folder seam also repair to the reverse side to Debra. In a collar Quezui place to cut, and then the hot water spigot seam points.
2. turn the spigot stop hot mouth pulls out, with the double-stranded wire Walled Village prison spigot, cover with a damp cloth hot real. It requires only straight mouth, left and right straight spigot, two symmetrical grid, split corners very flat, there is uniform inside and outside the nest potential spigot not turn spit.
3. fixed Walled Noodle
Mouth large body flat, split the first barge to transfer large body, folder upward, along the line a noodle slider Village, Noodle chest slightly loose. Then flip folder, start from 15cm below the shoulder, along the Border line a slider. Walled line is to be loose around the pin 3cm, while the cloth bags and lined with a definite prison.
4. The folder will trim at serial release noodles 2cm, horizontal necklines. Armhole release 1cm, shoulder seam release 0.5cm, the rest are mostly out of the folder out of repair.
(15) do back panties
The method is similar to the men's suits, the difference is big male clothes sewn back to Ji spigot open wire.
Our security training program is a 40-minute complete information security program for all employees and new recruits conduct security awareness training.
The company should be honest and law-abiding business, education and training staff should abide by the laws and rules of business operations, do not think staff violated the law on companies and irrelevant.
First Ji back seam, placket seam 0.5cm, lapel 1.5cm. Ji After the sewing head down to placket hot cell, and then close the bottom button placket back panties good hot, then Ji Ming spigot. Placket grid and back seam are Ji 1cm spigot, lapel lattice seam head buckle turn, co-Ji folder after Ji 0.8cm spigot back panties at the needle back and forth three sealing Ji, Ji good cover cloth hot water evil.
(Xvi) Ji swing joints, making the bottom seam 2. 1. Ji pendulum swing seam given folder
3. To make the bottom 4. Village splayed back to Ji armhole crochet
(17) together shoulder seam
1. Ji shoulder seam
After the shoulder seam, the seam 0.5cm, the predecessor of the lower seam, seam 1.5cm, shoulder seam in the shoulder in a little place to eat 1/3 of the potential of the shoulder seam Ji Village after a good car. Backward sewing head back, open wire pressure 1cm. Ji-line straight requires consistent width, can not afford to ripple shape.
2. fixed shoulder seam
Zhongshan Fu suit or production methods with the same manufacturing process.
(18) to do the collar
1. sticky collar lining
After stitching under collar seam, hot seam apart. To make the folded-back collar stiff, sticky adhesive collar, net-like lining, the collar, the lower collar portion can stick two adhesive liner, liner bonding ratio of net-like indentation around 0.1cm. Then in the next general serial ports combined seam turn buckle Ji prison.
2. The return pull collar, the collar surface
Generals, the collar under the port side shoulder joints unplugged mouth GuiLong shoulder joints, shoulder joints collar folding line transports and collects.
3. Village complex maxillofacial
Would go to pull a good collar, and collar face relatively positive, stripe symmetrical, a walled port along the outer lead wire. Note that when Zhaiwai mouth, neck angle and shoulder seams in collar and front to put the potential to eat, to place inside and outside the walled nest uniform potential.
4. Ji, doubled the lead
Easing ironing surface generals, along collar lining net like Ji-line, off-line Ji lining 0.1cm, requires Ji straight line, eat part of the potential can not be moved. After pruning Ji spigot seam, collar, left seam head around 0.3cm, collar and front seam six head around 0.6cm, hot water points and pulls spigot, with thread spigot walled prison. Note that only the mouth for a straight walled, Waterloo clothes, collar angle pan left or right symmetry. Then cover the water cloth ironing.
5. trimmed collar and front serial port, at the mouth
Brought under the surface and serial ports left seam 1cm, the split serial port line at the neck and collar, face flush, straight trim.
(Xix) fitted collar
1. Ji-collar side serial
The noodles wire serial interface at the straight, draw a good net pink line, raise 1cm split in the line of the mouth, eyes Quezui knife aligning the noodles and maxillofacial serial port on the front line of a co-Village, Ji in the car. Note that the upper and lower elastic consistency, Ji-line straight, after ironing water, hot evil.
2. Replace the collar,
Fitted collar, to take a different process method according to the thickness of fabric:
(1) Operation of thin woolen: the first serial port and net bodice pink line drawn collar, the collar, collar pin serial and pink Indian Village along the prison, where the serial port at the collar, a little tight at the collar, shoulder seam a little loose, after leading at Pingzhai, pay attention to symmetrical left and right, and then the car Ji 0.1cm spigot. (2) Operation of thick woolen: woolen collar, after the serial port and under no seam. Thus, the general after lap seam Videos prospective, double walled shares generals in line along the collar line net powder Village Good, then Village character line generals in prison, pitch to close, generally pin-0.2cm, pumping line a little tight .
3. Walled set collar face, folder, sealing tape (1) Village collar and front folder. Will lead, on the opposite site of the shoulders up on bread cloth with neck and shoulder at the first line of Walled Village prison folder, then the folder with the collar after the collar in the car walled prison. Note that, the surface is consistent, folder should not be too tight. Finally, turn the collar side buckle 0.8cm seam line a walled, hand needle walled prison.
(2) sealing tape
Lining made with a length of about 7cm, width 8cm, both sides of the wire harness buckle light inside the car after Ji-collar center. Sling do net long position of about 5.5cm, Collar needle back and forth three.
(XX) do Sleeves
The big sleeves sheet on the small piece sleeve, big sleeves sewn head position 0.5cm, small sleeves sewn head position 1.5cm. Walled line will be a good car after Ji, then back sleeve seam ironing water, a large surface pressure cuff entire 1cm spigot open wire Ji, Ji-line straight requires consistent width.
(21) mounted sleeve
A process for men clothes sleeves and Western clothing sleeves and shoulder pads mounted process is basically the same. SIMPLE coat fabrics with thick thin reason, loading sleeve eat potential may be appropriately increased or decreased.
(Xxii) borrowing folder, Ji spigot
1. The borrowing folder
Qiao folder under the surface of the site with a collar opening, folder shoulder seam, armhole, noodle bottom. Borrowing requirements of the various parts folder Easing uniform, pin flush folder moderately elastic.
Ji spigot include lead, lapels. Door lapel, the pressure should be on the front line, Ji width 1cm. Requirements Ji case straight, uniform width. Note that coat the predecessor folder hem and fabric is disengaged, do not hem predecessor folder sewn garment body.
Press the button size determines the size of the eye Zealand, New Zealand coat eye typically 3cm. If the coat of thick fabrics, use a coarse thread keyhole.
Coat with requirements and wife ironing step is basically the same, except that it expected after the front cover of the Mouth Water cloth ironing, but also with the end of cold iron Teng Ya, so only the mouth flat clothes, very thin.
Nail button to be flush with the New York eye position. Breasted first determine the position of the gate line, and then determine the location of decorative buckle. The opposite can clinch lined pad buttons, cloth to prevent income loss.
Verification process and methods can refer to the quality requirements of this section.
– END –
This article by the editors reprint network, exchange learning purposes only, without any commercial, belongs to original author. If infringement, please contact us, we will do the deletion process.
Want to know more please pay attention to us, oh!
Guiren Yi cut the exchange group number: 87586087
Guiren Yi teacher QQ: 343193093
The author of the article is set to be concerned about it can leave a message
Micro-channel sweep the attention of the public number
- Industry analysts note (June 17) automotive, logistics, lighting, equipment manufacturing, energy
- [ฟอรั่มวัฒนธรรม] วิธีที่จะเข้าใจวัฒนธรรมองค์กรของนวัตกรรมและนวัตกรรมโฟกัส
- 经理助理 福建省向天科技股份有限公司泉州 1500-1999/月